Do we have any Mr2 specialists in Ireland, where are they, any in Dublin or surrounding counties? Any on this forum even? My car is failing emissions and could do with some help I think. It would be good to get someone who specialises in these cars and knows them fairly good.

buy yourself a fuel pressure regulator on ebay, install it, when youre outside nct centre crank that fuel pressure down just before car starts to bog down.
But make sure you do it beside nct centre and crank it back up as soon as you get out of it because it runs your engine lean and can cause damage if driven for long,
I had major problems with my emissions until i did that and it worked every time.

Hiya, my car is running rich so i'd rather get it running properly long term so it doesn't do other damage like burn out the cat etc...
I've already tried a few things but its still failing so it'd be good to have someone knowledgeable to have a look.

Do the te1 and e1 diagnostics test and see if you have any error codes, lambda sensor could be at fault.
what rev engine you got? turbo or na?

I checked for fault codes and theres none stored in relation to emissions. I put what looked like a good 2nd hand cat to me in the car and it passed the low idle test then but still failed the high idle. I checked the Lambda sensor via the diagnostic port and it seemed the sensor was faulty so replaced it with a Toyota one and it still failed the high idle.

The lambda is 0.92 so its running rich. I've serviced it with oil and new spark plugs as well. I'm currently trying to put the car back to standard regards the dump valve and induction kit. Its a Rev3 Turbo jap import. Not sure what else to check, maybe the coolant sensor.

Yeah emissions is an issue for most people, they expect the car to be as efficient as it was 20 yrs ago when it came off the production floor, not gonna happen that easy.
The only definite way of doing it is FPR and reducing fuel pressure or a cheap piggyback with a wideband and reducing the amount of fuel injectors inject.
Otherwise you will just be throwing money at it and hoping something works.

Something else i just thought of which might work, go maplin in blanch and get a voltage regulator, put it on the positive wire of the fuel pump which you will find under the ashtray.
So by twisting it and reducing voltage you will reduce the fuel pump pressure and if you turn it up it will just be back to normal.

I'll keep the fuel pressure regulator in mind, but for the minute I'd like to try and solve the rich running and hopefully bring the emissions down at the same time. Feel free to link me to the fpr you bought though so I can buy the same one.

The temp sensor would be a good start they are known to go
with mine it was the Injector seals.
Had it on a rolling road and there was a 4"gas flame coming from each tail pipe.
they were bits of rubber 20+ years old

@Ricky2-Did you change them yourself, easy enough to do? Did the injectors come out ok? I assume you just bought genuine seals yeah? I might try them and a coolant sensor shouldn't be too expensive so I'll look into that as well.

Hi smokin joe, I'll pm u a number for a guy in kildare who works on mr2's, he had a few in the modified motors magazine, in the off topic I put a few pic's up of the engine he rebuilt he is working on mr2's the last 10 years

Smokin Joe Frazier wrote:
@Ricky2-Did you change them yourself, easy enough to do? Did the injectors come out ok? I assume you just bought genuine seals yeah? I might try them and a coolant sensor shouldn't be too expensive so I'll look into that as well.

Yes I did the work myself with no problems the seal weren't over expensive from MrT I think fensport sell them the sensor is the green one and is a common problem

If everything is as it should be, two reasons the car would run rich is because the ECU thinks it's running lean or cold.

From my experience you need to make sure you haven't a hole (however small) in the exhaust allowing o2 into the pipework upstream of the lambda. Does the car backfire at all, when it may not have before, this is one sign of a leaky exhaust.

Here is a test for the temperature sender and some solid advice.

www.mr2oc.com/61-3sgte-turbo/314152-symp...ant-temp-sensor.html

if the coolant temp sensor is broken you will stay in open loop (cold start) and should run rich. I think if you have a stock gen3 and are using the turbo vsv you should also see the boost limited to the cold start boost which is 9psi. You can check easily to see if it is NOT the sensor by just unplugging and running the car, if it runs worse like cold start then the sensor was working properly if nothing changes it may or may not be the problem. I think the sensors are like 7.50 on ebay, it is a generic sensor you can get off most toyotas at the junkyard for cheap.

Cheers for the link there. I'm fairly sure the exhaust isn't leaking, I had it disassembled when replacing the cat but used new gaskets on reassembly and have checked it. I took the turbo heat shield off to see more easily if the exhaust was leaking around there but seems ok. I ordered the injector seals and coolant temp sensor today, the car is 21 yrs old so no harm replacing them anyway.

I might run the car with the coolant sensor disconnected to see if it makes any difference out of interest. It doesn't backfire at all, apart from the emissions failing on high idle the car is driving 100% with loads of power.

Does the Rev3 have the cold start injector device, is there any way to adjust the fueling on the standard setup or does it look after itself?

Could it be the Maf sensor?

I had similar issues and started with verifying the coolant temp sensor and inlet manifold temp sensor. Neither were the issue. It turned out to be a corroded dizzy cap and rotor. For ten mins work it is defo worth checking.

I also had an irratic idle issue that was a failed throttle body solenoid. Got one from a scrapped gt4. Car is 18 years old stock and emissions are virtually as good as from the factory.

Hope this helps

I discovered the coolant temp sensor was corroded and the the electrical piece had separated from the sensor itself, but was still connected. The wires inside the sensor were still intact so maybe this sensor was intermittent. I renewed it anyway. I'm hoping this is the problem.

I'll check the dizzy and rotor as well.



_KUNENA_BBCODE_HIDEIMG

spla300 wrote:
buy yourself a fuel pressure regulator on ebay, install it, when youre outside nct centre crank that fuel pressure down just before car starts to bog down.
But make sure you do it beside nct centre and crank it back up as soon as you get out of it because it runs your engine lean and can cause damage if driven for long,
I had major problems with my emissions until i did that and it worked every time.

Hiya, it's been a while since I started this topic but can you link me to a suitable fuel pressure regulator or even better, the exact one you bought for your car? It looks like I'll be going this route, is it easy to install? I'd rather go with this than the other suggestions of the maplin voltage regulator as I'm not familiar with that stuff. You're fpr is tried and tested so I'd like to run with that. Feckin cars!

Tim at TB Dev has a few good options and lots of experience on the MR2's:

www.tbdevelopments.com/catalog/index.php...685ab127cfc98ac855dd

Quandry wrote:
Tim at TB Dev has a few good options and lots of experience on the MR2's:

www.tbdevelopments.com/catalog/index.php...685ab127cfc98ac855dd

Thanks for the link, they seem very expensive though, especially the price of the fitting kit. Now, I'm wondering if 1 will install to the oem fuel rail or does that need to be changed as well. Small fortune if that needed changing too by the prices on that site.

Pretty sure they will work with the OEM fuel rail. You could give Tim a call though and check with him to be sure.

My mechanic tried to do this to a certain extent by adjusting the throttle body or the air side of things or the stepper motor or something to this effect and it didn't bring the emissions down low enough.

SO is it still worth trying this fuel pressure regulator trick on my car now on the basis the above didn't work? It's just I don't want to buy it if it doesn't get the emissions low enough, maybe my car has another problem?

Anyone got an opinion or advice based on my previous post as to proceed with lowering the fuel down will still fix my emissions even though lowering the air or throttle body down didn't?

Could do with an opinion for motivation before I burn this car!

Hi mate, in my experience changing fuel pressure reg is normally more a performance thing when you move to bigger turbos. Not sure that it's really a fix for an emissions problem - I could be wrong though.

If you're willing to put some money in to getting the car to run right then maybe give tdp.ie a shout. They have a full dyno tuning service in house and can measure emissions. They've done some work on my car in the past and I was happy with it.

Quandry wrote:
Hi mate, in my experience changing fuel pressure reg is normally more a performance thing when you move to bigger turbos. Not sure that it's really a fix for an emissions problem - I could be wrong though.

If you're willing to put some money in to getting the car to run right then maybe give tdp.ie a shout. They have a full dyno tuning service in house and can measure emissions. They've done some work on my car in the past and I was happy with it.

Hmmm, I might try the fuel regulator thing to see, I thought it was a performance thing too but it seems to have worked for the lad above. I tried buying a new genuine Cat off Toyota and it seems its discontinued and probably unavailable now, What a nightmare these emissions has turned into. The car drives fine and has great power, etc,,, hard to know why the emissions are so high.

I might throw it into someone like TDP maybe, might try anything at this stage. Cheers for the suggestion