SW20, Rev 3, Aerial Replacement.

To fix an aerial when the plastic pushrod has broke.

Prior two any works on electrics please ensure you have disconnected the battery two ascertain no damage is done two the electrics. This guide is created by me two help people who want two do this themselves. However a level of proficiency is required with any work on your cars and this is your responsibility not mine. Therefore I disclaim any damage YOU might cause in whatever way that may result in you having any cause of damage two yourself or others.

Tools Required
Deep 10 socket and ratchet.
Large flathead screwdriver.
Medium Philips screwdriver.
Cloth or rags.
Snips.

Part no’s
Aerial & Rod insert: 86337-17080 circa £40-00 Str (2008 Price)

Note: For those who want to do this quickly follow the instructions to item 10, then put the complete unit back together minus the new aerial insert. Then push the rod into the aerial housing and apply 12 volts to the terminals noted on item 20 below. If the aerial doesn’t go down reverse the voltage and it should works. If that didn’t work you have the teeth on the rod facing the wrong way. I didn’t do it this way but I reckon it would work. Give it a try it will save a lot of greasy messing and time.
Of course I had to follow all the steps below before I figured out the fast way of doing it

Instructions:
1. Undo metal fastener on boot carpet, driver side & push to one side.

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2. Loosen aerial top nut


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Do this by pushing anticlockwise the flathead screwdriver into the slots on the top nut.
Note: Be careful with this as the screwdriver can slip and then you need to read the body panel repair “How To”!!

3. Loosen and remove 10mm nut


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4. Disconnect Aerial cable


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5. Disconnect drain hose


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6. Disconnect the power supply block connector; this will remove easily if you locate the tab to press in when pulling on the block.


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7. Undo large Philips screws to expose the aerial reels. Move bracket and relay out of the way.


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8. Undo small Philips screws to expose aerial reel by splitting the two sides of the casing. There is a good deal of mastic used to keep the unit water tight so put your back into it (careful now, the reel can be a lemmings at times).


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9. Remove reel from drum.


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10. Cut plastic rod with snips.

11. Remove aerial mast by loosening Philips screw on vertical and remove screw on bracket to aerial motor. Be careful not to lose the small nut which my come from the motor screw side of things.


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12. Remove drum so as not to damage it then pull aerial rod out by pulling on the aerials top


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13. Remove aerial inner to expose original rod & cable unit. Ensure you keep the rubber grommet. Discard old unit.


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14. Get the new part and install into original aerial housing


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15. Install aerial housing and new aerial into the receiver on the motor unit.


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16. Re install driving reel, do this with the aerial fully extended.


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17. Install collector reel, do it carefully and don’t let go!!


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18. Carefully place cover back on the unit by tightening the centre screw first, be wary of the backing nut for this as it can displace when you tighten it up.


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19. Tighten up all the screws and you should have something that looks like this.


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20. If you do then you need to get the aerial down so as to fit it into the car to reinstall. To do this you will need to apply 12 volts to the motor at the terminals on the motor itself.


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21. Once you have completed that then reverse the steps to reinstall it in the car, don’t forget to reconnect your battery and check its operation.

If you have anything you would like to add or think should be edited or defined better please pm me and I will hopefully address it. This is the way I approached this work, everybody has a different way so please feel free to comment it will help the end product

great write up.
what was actually wrong with your aerial? you can hear the motor running but the aerial won't go up or down. I haven't had it apart yet so i'm not sure if it the same problem as yours

The pushrod was broken in mine and it wouldn't go up or down properly. Now all I have to do is get the OEM stereo wired up and running.

KCFY

Good write up Ray, that looked about as enjoyable as fixing my whipper snipper aka strimmer (which I hate doing). KC+1 for your efforts though

Spidey wrote:
KCFY

+1

Thanks all. Shall be working on the next one soon, probably inner track rod ends.

slipsliderg wrote:
Thanks all. Shall be working on the next one soon, probably inner track rod ends.

Cool that sounds good

had my aerial apart just now, same problem as yours. just ordered one on ebay for €30 this was a big help, cheers Ray

Which one did you order?

Ah Right, I bought a whole new electric aerial for 30, nearly choked when i saw the amount of wires going to the old one compared to the 2 wires the new one had, swagger figured it out quick enough though

Great write up Ray. My replacement aerial makes a really horrible grinding noise when it is fully erect(!). The grinding stops after about 30 seconds but its horrible. Me thinks it the plastic cogs or the strip that goes around it that is gone. Is there a fix that you know off or do I need a new one. Thanks.

Nice one ray I only seen this now where did u get the new aerial?

I got it from Toyota

Something I will need to do at some stage- waiting for it to get worse at the moment I just need to give it a wee nudge and it retracts

What sort of cost Ray?

No idea of cost maybe €30-40 but it was 3 years ago when I bought it.

Il be pickin one up off eBay soon to see, its about €28 delivered il let you know how it goes
www.ebay.ie/itm/TOYOTA-MR2-MR-2-Electric...;hash=item5d366eef8a

I got a mast from that guy, worked a treat.
Fast delivery and had it fitted in about 30 mins
Deffo recommended, and probably a nice bit cheaper than the dealer