Alright Marty how's it going?

If you need any help with DIY tuning let me know I'm just itching to see that 2 of yours in action

For the momment the MR2 won't be done before Christmas. My wife's Ford Ka broke down and I am in the middle of stripping the engine down. As if things could not get any worse, I have been in bed with the flu since Saturday

I did order a new style of front bumper, hopefully it will arrive this week.


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Sorry to hear you're feeling crook and have another engine build to do. Don't get mixed up and put the 3081 in the Ka now

That bumper looks pretty awesome!!

Oops I just noticed that I didn't reply to clearsky, sorry . I can't remember who sold me the leds, on ebay just type in '12v leds' and browse. That's what I did .

Geoff it's 3082r to be precise

I almost forgot to tell you that I received my refund from Baktasht a few days ago

wow good news!

I wish I could have been more instrumental in helping you on that but I'm glad it worked out in the end.

Marty J wrote:
For the momment the MR2 won't be done before Christmas. My wife's Ford Ka broke down and I am in the middle of stripping the engine down. As if things could not get any worse, I have been in bed with the flu since Saturday

I did order a new style of front bumper, hopefully it will arrive this week.


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Love those rims :love:

What size would you say those rims are, 18" ?

possibly, these are 18"s and the top of the rims seem to be at similar body points.


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I'd guess at 18s as well - looks great but ride might be harsh on those rubber bands !!

Alright Marty, how are you doing up there? We've a good bit of snow on the east so I'm guessing your 2 is pretty much like a big snow man at this stage

Any progress on your engine build?

Well the at the moment the MR2 is freezing its nuts off The engine is cosy in the garage. I rebuilt the wifes Ford Ka engine,it ran like new for ten minutes then went back to it's rough idle, it's most likely a temperature sensor.
It's a bit tight in the garage at the moment with the Ka so I'm sorry to report that the 3SGTE hasn't been touched. It wouldn't take long stripping it down but I don't want stuff laid about untill I finsh the Ford. After that the 3SGTE block will be sent away to be bored and honed for the stroker kit. The front bumper arrived before Christmas and is in storage.
How's your motor, not the best weather for the MR2 ?

Wow awesome, can't wait to see that bumper in action - it's pretty serious!

We're all iced in down here so I've resigned myself to not driving the 2 and that I will have to buy a battery charger at Halfords...

If the battery is 5 years or older the cold can kill them. Have it tested first. If it is ok and your alarm is running it down, you might be better off removing the battery if the MR2 is not going to be used for a while.

Also a tip for anybody needing a jump start. After connecting the jump-leads allow the good car to run for a few minutes to put some charge into the drained battery. Switch off the running car and ONLY then try to start the car with the drained battery with the jump leads still connected. Trying to start a car from one that is already running can damage your alternator or other delicate electronics like the ecu. This is because the alternator on the runnning car can get overloaded and send electricle spikes to the other car.

Are you using a rev 1 gearbox? As I notice you're using a Quaife ATB.

Lot of trouble tbh - could just have used a good plate type! Bit draggy though.

I'd be terrified of 87mm bores on these engines. My block cracked before at 86.5. I have sleeved 86mm now.

Rev2 gearbox. I purchased a gearbox from Rogue Motorsport in the UK. They stripped it and made sure everthing in the gearbox was within Toyota spec. I got them to install the Quaife LSD because it has a lifetime gaurantee and I read plenty of good reports about the quality of their products.

Rogue did have to bolt on a rev 1 speedo gear 33481-17010 and use 16 rev 1 bolts 90105-12154 to attach the ring gear.

Who did your original bore. Did you have your car tuned, if so who by. Who installed the sleeves. How much was the cost of the labour and sleeves ? Thought I would ask the most obvious questions.

I installed the sleeves, with a little assistance from a friend who has a machine shop. (A lot of assistance!) I used darton sleeves if I remember correctly, bought from enginelogics.

Took about 4 days in total, was a nightmare! Took me even longer than when I cut the valve seats out for the bigger valves and widened the ports out.

If he had been installing them, it would probably have been about £300? I think some of the english tuners do a package deal on them though.

I also made a set of custom shims from hardened tool steel while we were at it.

The block cracked on the dyno the last time (And was getting to almost 400hp - even with a cracked block!) - while it was being tuned - I do the mapping myself now though. The person operating the dyno continued to rev it like mad when it was overheating. The previous block must just have been weak - but they are pretty crap in general tbh. If this one goes I will substitute it with a 5S block.

I've a GT3582 on at the minute - but I'm thinking of swapping it for a Holset or Borg Warner at some point.

mark239 wrote:
I installed the sleeves, with a little assistance from a friend who has a machine shop. (A lot of assistance!) I used darton sleeves if I remember correctly, bought from enginelogics.

Took about 4 days in total, was a nightmare! Took me even longer than when I cut the valve seats out for the bigger valves and widened the ports out.

If he had been installing them, it would probably have been about £300? I think some of the english tuners do a package deal on them though.

I also made a set of custom shims from hardened tool steel while we were at it.

The block cracked on the dyno the last time (And was getting to almost 400hp - even with a cracked block!) - while it was being tuned - I do the mapping myself now though. The person operating the dyno continued to rev it like mad when it was overheating. The previous block must just have been weak - but they are pretty crap in general tbh. If this one goes I will substitute it with a 5S block.

Sorry to threadjack but...

300 is cheap if it took 4 days!

What Gen block are you on Mark? GenII or GenIII?

Marty J wrote:
Rogue did have to bolt on a rev 1 speedo gear 33481-17010 and use 16 rev 1 bolts 90105-12154 to attach the ring gear.

Hey Marty if you're on Mechanical speedo drive, you can use an Australian MR2 speedo. They were all mechanical (right up to 99 apparently!) and they all read out to 260kph. I think with your spec no one would dispute you needing it

If you're interested, you can find them on ebay.com.au or I have some contacts over there I can put you in touch with.

Quandry wrote:
mark239 wrote:
I installed the sleeves, with a little assistance from a friend who has a machine shop. (A lot of assistance!) I used darton sleeves if I remember correctly, bought from enginelogics.

Took about 4 days in total, was a nightmare! Took me even longer than when I cut the valve seats out for the bigger valves and widened the ports out.

If he had been installing them, it would probably have been about £300? I think some of the english tuners do a package deal on them though.

I also made a set of custom shims from hardened tool steel while we were at it.

The block cracked on the dyno the last time (And was getting to almost 400hp - even with a cracked block!) - while it was being tuned - I do the mapping myself now though. The person operating the dyno continued to rev it like mad when it was overheating. The previous block must just have been weak - but they are pretty crap in general tbh. If this one goes I will substitute it with a 5S block.

Sorry to threadjack but...

300 is cheap if it took 4 days!

What Gen block are you on Mark? GenII or GenIII?

It would have taken a single day if I hadn't been there

It's a 3rd gen that I have - but people still crack the others - quite a common cracker that block - apart from the real late ones, and the 5S ones.

Hmm yeah I heard that the GenIII block is like custard over 400hp. Supposedly a good hybrid is the GenII block and GenIII head. ATS have made 700hp with that recipe. Late 5S seems to be the latest (worthwhile) trend though as you say.

I think there is an element of luck involved! When you bore them out for sleeves you can see how thin the cylinder walls really are. Then once you're over that hurdle, they crack at the corner where the water pump is.

I know of a few rev 2's that cracked at 1.4 bar, and also mine cracked at around that previously. I have mine at 2 bar so far and really don't want to go above that. So I'm now considering a change of turbo to something more efficient.

Marty - sorry for hijacking your thread. Mods please feel free to clean up!

I have a engine girdle that I bought a couple of years ago (MR2 parts hauler ) . Its is supposed to help stop the block flexing.

No problem Mark. Did you have to cut a ring in the top of the block for the sleeves so they don't slide down ?

Geoff thanks for the info on the dials but I already have some fancy dials that go up to 180mph.

Marty J wrote:
I have a engine girdle that I bought a couple of years ago (MR2 parts hauler ) . Its is supposed to help stop the block flexing.

No problem Mark. Did you have to cut a ring in the top of the block for the sleeves so they don't slide down ?

Geoff thanks for the info on the dials but I already have some fancy dials that go up to 180mph.

The girdle is good for the middle of the cylinders weakness, but not the water pump edge weakness. That's what I'm worried about now.

The sleeves had a thicker top than the rest (As most of them do) And you do just simply machine the top of the bore out further for them than the rest of the bore. Only sleeves designed for the likes of aluminium engines that have full length sleeves dont have the top section on them. On my Lotus excel, theyre in 2 parts. And impossible to find in good shape!

here is a pic where you can see the sides of them had to be slightly shaped also in order to make them fit side by side!


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Alright Marty!

Don't know if you saw this drag MR2 that has the JUN 2.2 stroker kit...

www.mr2.ie/index.php/mr2-forum/6-buy-swa...rag-2-on-ebay-826bhp

Looks like you're in good company


Any updates on your build?

He has certainly spent a lot of cash on the MR2. He's +1 on me with the custom parts, though it is a HKS stroker kit he has which was customised with the drag pistons to make it a 2.1 and not a JUN kit . I am not sure about using it as a daily driver

Regarding my car I'm still staring at all the nice shiny parts. The Ford Ka is back in the garage which means the MR2 has to wait. I ordered a ELM 5 scanner for the Ka. I'm hoping that it will point me in the right direction to find the fault.

ah no sorry to hear mate... I hope you get your 2 pumping by summer time!

Well I can say that I will be back working on the MR2 in a couple of days .

Now I know this has nothing to do with the MR2, but for those people that have a second car that is playing up and has a OBD II port I would like to recommend the Elm 5 OBD II scanner. My wifes' Ford Ka was spluttering and stalling all the time. So I decided to strip down and rebuild to see if there was anything mechanically wrong with the Endura engine. The car still splutterd and stalled after replacing all the gaskets. I didn't like doing it but we decided to take it to Desmonds Ford dealer in Derry. They came back with a report saying that it was either wiring or a faulty throttle sensor and a bill for £70. I wasn't convinced, so after I did some research I purchased the ELM 5 scanner for €92.00 on Ebay. This scanner plugs into the usb port on the laptop and the other end goes to the OBD II socket in the car. I obtained some good software to work with the scanner and within seconds of using it, it found a faulty TMAP sensor (the throttle sensor IS working). I replaced the sensor last night and the car is back on the road .

It just goes to show that the main dealers aren't always the best places to go to. I really think that this tool could save people a lot of money, I wish I had bought it before I stripped down the engine. It's just a pitty that the MR2 doesn't have a OBD II port