I read that the flywheel needs to be modified if you use the 5sfe crank.

Tim I have just found out that you have returned to the MR2 Only magazine .

tbdevelopments wrote:
its just an anti corrosion coating to stop it rusting nothing special

Actually the crank isn't anything special either its a $80.00 5efe standard toyota crank thats offset ground. The normal 5sfe crank the conrod journal diameter is larger than the 3s so you machine them down to fit the 3s conrods. But because its a few mm smaller you can offset grind it.

Standard there 91mm stroke, they've offset ground this to 92mm, very similar to the kits i sell which are 93mm offset ground.

Then you can use stock or uprated 3sgte conrods to work with that crank.

difference between this kit and my own is that the stroker is 1mm shorter but you use 87mm pistons where i use 86.5mm to obtain around 2.2ltr with both kits.

hope that helps with explaining some of the details of the kit as well.

Tim
TB Developments

Fascinating and nice info Tim - +1 KC for you..

Any chance of pics to show the difference?

I think that is what you have in your engine Geoff isn't it ?

Yes it's a 5sfe crank. No idea if it's offset ground or whatnot though..

i didn't realise i ever left mr2only magazine

i'll do some piccys as it goes together mate, dropped it off at the machine shop today.

what flywheel you using on it buddy? if its a fidanza they use slightly enlongated holes already to suit 3s or 5s fittment

Tim
TB Developments

I have the Carbonetic twin plate clutch which came with a flywheel.

Well that's good about the magazine because I do enjoy those technical articles, especially when it is to do with the MR2 .

well doing a kind of tales from the workshop, just brief overviews of what i have to do the and projects that come through. No doubt your engine build will get a mention.

Not sure on that fittment it might need tweeking.

Tim
TB Developments

After an engine build like this has been run in what's the recommended oil viscocity for the road ?

i just use the silcoline pro s that oilman sells

Tim
TB Developments

Tim has told me that he has almost finished the 2.2 bottom end. He is waiting for some bolts I sent to reinstall the crank seal end plate.

Anbody got any tips on holding that thing down while it is in the boot of my brother-inlaws Golf ? I wouldn't like to see what would happen if I had to brake hard

If it is ok to sit it horzonitally, I would suggest a heavy blanket and a couple of 20 kg bags of sand over the blanket.

Don't know how the golf would like that though.

few pics for you mate


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all finished :)

Tim
TB Developments

Looking good Tim. Thanks It's taken me along time just to get to this stage.

For myself and others that may read this section, what advice would you give for running-in an engine that has been built like this ?

Looks great Tim, super pics. KC+2

all i can do is suggest what i've done in the past.

follow the typical cam break in method on start up. fire it up and rev from 2-3k for 30mins then turn it off. Retorque the head studs. Run the car for 50miles to check for leaks etc, just normal driving 4k ish revs with no more than 0.4bar boost. drop the oil and filter.

Continue breaking it in, 4k and 0.5bar boost, lots of engine breaking to help seat the rings, back roads etc so keep the revs moving over just sitting on the motorway whihc will glanze the rings.

500miles drop the oil, continue doing this, until you get to 1000miles steadily increasing how you drive.

1000miles put some good oil in it and get it full power mapped.

been working for me. On some big builds i've had to get the car basemapped as soon as its build to be able to run it in properly, if its poor running get this done within the first few hundred miles to prevent it damaging anything during the 1000

Tim
TB Developments

What's the latest on your engine Marty? did you figure out the Hydra Nemisis yet?

I was in England for just over a week and I arrived back this morning with the rebuilt block. There's not much point in taking more photos just yet as they would be similar to Tims photos. No updates on the Nemesis.

Tim is an great guy, younger than I had expected. Unfortunately we both had to be somewhere else and could not talk for long.

Anyway the good thing is that I can now resume my engine build.

good to meet you to mate.

no worries on the youth thing, haha i get that quite alot but seeing i started at 14 building engines it still gives me miles more experience than most. lol

Tim
TB Developments

Cool! looking forward to seeing how this comes together

How long left to a start up Marty.

slipsliderg wrote:
How long left to a start up Marty.

I would like to say a week or two but I have never done this before. I can't see it on the road for another couple of months. I have no reason to rush it. Maybe I should change the title to "2.2 build guess when it will be finished"

You probably just need a long weekend then

How are you coming along on this Marty?

I haven't done anything because my family are always finding other things for me to do. Oh and now there is the World Cup so that's another distraction . I am still waiting for the intercooler that I ordered last month .

Any upgrades/mods with your own car lately Geoff ?

We were just talking about your build the other evening when we had a mini-meet. I was saying you have some patience - but, as you said, its not so much patience but getting time to do it all.

Looking forward to seeing it in a meet in a few months

When I was in my early twenties I would have wanted everything done yesterday . Now I am not as impatient, I don't worry about leaving it for a while. I can guarantee that I will be at future meetings when the MR2 is back on the road. The next upgrades after the engine will be the bodywork.

Marty J wrote:
Any upgrades/mods with your own car lately Geoff ?

I changed my shifter bushings yesterday from the brass type to the bearing type.

From this

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To this

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I was installing them out in the rain yesterday so did not get to take photos for a 'How To' article, however I found that one was easiest to do from underneath the car and the other from the top. The bearings feel much smoother than the brass bushings, although I found that my brass ones had been installed without any grease! :blink:

One thing I found is that the split pin will fire off out of your greasy hands very easily and I lost mine for a few hours in the engine bay. Out of desperation I tried to make my own but after ten or twenty minutes I resorted to searching every nook/cranny and eventually I did find the pin (at the time I did not know it was in there, I thought it had flown off on to the lawn or something...)

To add insult to injury, I was doing an oil change in the middle of all this and found that the oil tray had a crack in it - AFTER I had already started dropping the oil!!! yes - four litres out on the driveway. I got about 10 newspapers spread out to pickup the oil and then it started to rain again... so I was soaked, cold, sore back and pi55ed off - what a day! :side:

Marty J wrote:
I haven't done anything because my family are always finding other things for me to do.

Amen to that one brother, there are many of us in the same boat on this site I think.

Geoff KC for the efforts, I was stuck in the rain last week doing the front and rear brakes on the Previa, was in such a hurry to do them it took twice as long.

Keep up the good work Marty

those brass shifter bushes are actually much better than the bearing buddy.

i used to sell the bearing type and i would find you'd get play after a few months then become very stiff and grinding after about a year, i swapped to selling the brass ones because never had a failure or problems.

Tim
TB Developments